We are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available, and each Friday Shopping Time shares five standout timepieces with you.
F. P. Journe is, for many watch collectors, the ultimate watch brand to own. Here at Shopping Time, we’ve documented Rolex GMT Masters, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, (pre-TAG) Heuer chronographs. steel Rolex Daytona and even the Cartier Tank, but this is the first time that we are digging into a brand that made our list of the “25 Greatest Independent Watchmakers in the World.” Robb Report has looked into F. P. Journe’s Resonance watch in great detail, cataloging all of the different series the watchmaker has issued over the past few decades. And we’ve fallen for nearly every release, including the Journe Élégante, the Vagabondage, the Octa Perpetual Calendar, and more. We put Journe repeatedly on our Best Of lists.
So why is it that the watchmaking of Francois-Paul Journe has so persuasively captivated the world of watch collecting—as well as the staff here at Robb Report? It really comes down to three things. Joune’s level of craft and finishing is unmatched. Journe takes daring moves with complications (such as the Resonance) that have become watchmaking landmarks, And, perhaps most importantly, Journe makes incredibly handsome watches with movements so beautiful that many collectors claim they’d wear them backwards if the lugs allowed for it.
In a recent interview with a prominent, but anonymous, collector who goes by @NYCwatchguy, the collector told Robb Report of his Tourbillon Souverain by F.P. Journe, “If you put a gun to my head and said I’d have to get rid of everything and could only wear one watch for the rest of my life, it would be this Journe tourbillon in platinum.” Given his utterly insane collection that includes pieces from Akrivia, Simon Brette, MB&F, and a one-of-a-kind Grönefeld, this is really saying something. Journe just captivates those for whom price is no object.
Speaking of price, according to the watch market index Everywatch, Journe’s timepieces had been on an insane upward trajectory. The Tourbillon Souverain, the Chronometre à Resonance, and the Vagabondage I, II, and III all take a sharp turn upward in price starting in 2019. When we say steep, we mean steep. For example, the Chronometre à Resonance was fetching a healthy twice-retail price of around $80,000 in early 2019, and by 2021 an example festched $588,000 (and we’ve heard tell of a seven-figure Series One selling privately). This is—and we don’t use this phrase lightly—completely bonkers. But the good news is that those prices are, like the rest of the market, coming back down toward something like sanity—that is, if you can consider five- and six-figure prices sane.
But whatever your pocketbook has to say about these prices, it’s kind of incredible that one can simply go buy a Journe at all, seeing as these watches have been made in limited numbers and have been coveted for decades. Below we’ve curated five of the best examples available on the market right now.
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F.P. Journe Chronometre Bleu Souveraine | $83,999
Image Credit: Chrono24 As impressive as the high complication work from F.P. Journe is, it is the relatively simple Chronometre Bleu that has won the hearts of many enthusiasts. It is also the watch responsible for bringing many newcomers to the brand. This is thanks in large part to the truly captivating and dynamic dial, which is almost mysterious in nature. The dial shifts between a variety of blue hues depending on the viewing angle and lighting conditions, rendering its true nature somewhat elusive. The dial design is a template for the brand’s visual DNA that we’ll see expanded upon in the remaining selections. Crucially, it remains just as compelling in its most basic form thanks to forms we know associate with F.P. Journe, such as the shape of the hands, and the design of the numerals.
The Chronometre Bleu makes use of a 39 mm case that’s constructed of tantalum, a rare sight, which perfectly complements both the dial, and the choice of strap here which is a light brown crocodile skin that borders on orange. This example, available on Chrono24, was built in 2014 and looks to be in nearly new condition. It is offered as a full kit with an extra strap included with purchase. You will get a sense of the dynamic qualities of the dial in the images accompanying the listing, but trust us when we tell you that they do the true effect no justice. This is one that needs to be seen to be fully appreciated.
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F.P. Journe Élégante | $42,950
Image Credit: Nashville Watch This one might seem slightly out of place, but it’s quickly become a fan favorite from F.P. Journe, and for good reason. The Élégante is a quartz powered watch packaged in a rather unusually shaped flat tortue titanium case, and it all comes together way better than you might expect. Don’t let that quartz label fool you, though. The caliber 1210 at use here is an electro mechanical movement with motion detector that puts the watch in standby mode when stationary for 35 minutes. This allows for prolonged usage that could keep the watch running for 18 years. It’s also beautifully designed and finished, shaped to the case of the watch itself. This is not your average electronic movement. The dial side provides a familiar view that echoes watches like the Chronometre Bleu.
The Élégante has been created in a wide variety of configurations, and this example offered by Nashville Watch is about as classic as they come. The titanium case and creamy white dial are accented by a gray rubber strap with titanium buckle. The pieces framing the dial offer a moment of depth, and turn the negative space into a welcome area of interest. The result is an exceptionally light and comfortable watch on the wrist. This example was sold in early 2022 and remains in like new condition.
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F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche | £70,000 (~$92,000)
Image Credit: A Collected Man The Octa Réserve de Marche carries a huge amount of significance for the brand, not only carrying the first automatic movement developed by François-Paul, but also laying a foundation for a growing collection. The caliber 1300.3 is unique, and represents the ethos of the watchmaker. It was developed with the intention of accepting a range of complications without adding any thickness in the process. Because of this, every watch in the Octa collection, regardless of complexity, shares the same pleasant dimensions. In addition, the watch is also defined by its unique asymmetrical dial design that doesn’t shy away from negative space. The result is a beautiful sense of balance that leads the eye from complication to complication.
This example is the Octa Réserve de Marche offered by A Collected Man. The hours, minutes, and seconds are situated in a vertical alignment on the right side of the dial, while a graceful procession of the power reserve arcs across the opposite side. An outsized date aperture presides at the top of the dial. The 40 mm platinum case measures 10.6 mm in thickness, with a sapphire exhibition caseback offering a view of the beautifully finished movement. This example is from 2023, and is offered as a full set. It’s a prime example of one of the foundational collections from F.P. Journe.
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F.P. Journe LineSport Chronographe Monopoussoir | $130,000
Image Credit: The Keystone F.P. Journe has always taken a rather unconventional approach to sport watches, and the results are often quite remarkable as a result. In 2011, the brand released the Centigraphe Sport in aluminum, making for a shockingly light take on their 1/100th of a second chronograph. Conversely, the LineSport doesn’t shy away from rather heavy precious metals, such as gold and platinum, each expressing a different view of the sporty chronograph. In each case, the remarkable movement engineering takes a distinctly unique identity. The LineSport Monopoussoir uses the hand wound caliber 1518, which, as the name suggests, uses a single pusher to start, stop, and reset the timing function. The second pusher located at 4 o’clock is used to split the timing, when needed.
This Chronographe Monopoussoir comes to us from The Keystone, and is rendered rose gold. The case measures a broad 44 mm in diameter, and 12.1 mm in thickness. It’s a watch with a confident presence, but the manner in which the bracelet has been integrated into the case makes it not only visually interesting, but also much more wearable than you might imagine. This watch dates to 2020 and is accompanied by its papers, but no box. This is a great example of one of the truly great chronograph movements to ever be produced, and this one plays by its own rules.
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F. P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain | $387,000
Image Credit: European Watch Company Finally, we have an early example of François-Paul’s work that is prized by collectors for its groundbreaking aesthetic and stunning architecture. The Tourbillon Souverain is a cornerstone of the brand as it exists today, and this example represents the first generation of the configuration. Between the formative years of 1999 and 2004, Journe made movements from brass, and these represent the medium through which his earliest visions were brought to life. The first generation Tourbillon Souverain uses the caliber 1498, which boasts a constant force tourbillon operating via remontoire mechanism, which stores power prior to releasing it to the escapement to ensure it continually receives the same amount of force. This process is visible through a dial aperture at 6 o’clock.
As you might expect, not many of these watches were produced. This example hails from 2001, and is offered by European Watch Company as a full set. The condition here is exceptional, with a subtle but even amount of aging beginning to make itself known. This watch was serviced by F.P. Journe in 2018, and should offer plenty of great wear opportunities as a result. This watch is a staple of the lore built up around what the brand has become, and owning it is a rare opportunity.
Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller. We can recommend viewing our video “How to Collect It: Vintage Watches” to glean some best practices, however.
Authors
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Blake Buettner
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Allen Farmelo
