The best skirt I own is a high-waisted pencil skirt that comes to just above my ankles, with a split in the back that runs all the way up to the mid-thigh. It is made from a stiff wool tailoring fabric that holds its shape, so it never creases.
It’s the kind of skirt that can be worn with a T-shirt and sandals but can also become something far more glamorous with the right blouse and a heel. Its only real flaw is the lack of pockets. Skirts like this should not be so hard to come by, and yet, finding one that is practical, stylish and versatile can be difficult.
From those essential pockets to the quality of the fabric and construction, experts explain what to look for when shopping for a skirt.
Fabric: from cotton poplin to heavier denim
If you’re looking for a skirt to be a “workhorse in your wardrobe”, the designer Lee Mathews suggests one made from an easy-wearing fabric. “I prefer cotton poplin for its durability, breathability and lightweight qualities,” she says. This also means it’s easier to clean and care for.
In a heavier weight, look for denim or wool tailored skirts, as these fabrics also wear well, are easy to care for and can be suited to a range of occasions.
Designer Courtney Zheng is also partial to skirts made from high-quality synthetic blends, which are necessary for pleated skirts since they can withstand frequent wear and washing. “It’s more important for lining to be breathable, so I use silk cotton voile,” she says.
Silhouette: from mini to ankle length
“I favour a silhouette that’s nipped at the waist and skims gracefully down to mid-calf,” says Dr Kate Luckins, a sustainable fashion educator and author of Live More With Less.
The skirt shape you opt for should come down to your personal preference and body type. This season really anything goes: ankle-length figure-hugging skirts made from sheer, stretchy fabrics have taken hold, alongside pencil skirts that come to below the knee, long pleated skirts and miniskirts, which have been back for a while.
Construction: it’s all in the seams
The next thing to consider is how well it has been made. The best way to assess this is by looking inside the skirt. According to Zheng, the seams are a giveaway of the time and care that’s gone into a piece. Look for French or bias-bound seams that have absolutely no raw edges. She says the stitching should be neat with no puckering, and any hardware should look and feel substantial.
Although lining isn’t always necessary, Luckins says, “a well-lined skirt can enhance form – without the need for torturous, clingy synthetic undergarments”. Additionally, lining helps prevent creases and “those dreaded crotch whiskers”.
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Pockets: the most valuable player
“Pockets are essential,” says Mathews. Since it takes added time and care to add pockets to garments, these are generally a sign of superior quality.
Luckins: “It’s such a win if you get your hands on a skirt with two generous pockets … so you can warm your hands or stash your phone and a whole set of keys if you want to skip down the street sans handbag.”
If you can, seek secondhand
Unfortunately, due to the decline in quality of ready-to-wear clothes over the last few decades, these markers of quality are getting harder to find. For this reason, Luckins encourages secondhand shopping.
“Buying vintage or secondhand skirts can help you access styles that aren’t popularised by fashion right now,” she says. “The adage ‘they don’t make things the way they used to’ can also ring true; some vintage garments have a quality of construction that’s impossible to replicate.”
Get the right fit
“A skirt is one of the easiest garments to have tailored,” says Mathews. “I would always recommend having a good tailor on call to assist.”
Some alterations can be easier than others, such as raising the hem of an unlined skirt or nipping in a waistband at the side seams. The more complicated the construction, the more time and expertise will be required.
“When there are pockets, pleats or a more complex design to contend with, seek a quote from an experienced tailor and assess whether the investment is worth it,” says Luckins.