8 Things To Know Before Shopping For Vintage Clothing

Just as your grandmother’s quilts or your aunt’s Blue Willow collection dial up the personality quotient in your home, there’s no faster way to add character to your closet than through a piece (or 12) of vintage clothing. 

I first discovered my own appreciation for throwback styles in the Birmingham, Alabama, basement of Susan Dumas, whose matchless eye and near-reckless approach to hospitality drive the biannual vintage clothing shows she holds on the ground level of her midcentury home. (Re: the “near-reckless” bit: On show days, she leaves the doors unlocked for vintage hunters and hangs typed up signs that advise bad guys to stay away.) 

In Dumas’s basement, the racks are packed as tightly as shiny cans of sardines—if the slippery little fish were instead fluttery chiffon maxis, brocade evening gowns, and embroidered cotton caftans. It’s a sartorial wonderland with a nostalgic streak, and I nearly always leave with something I simply couldn’t live without. After all, there’s no hopping online and snagging the same thing later; that’s just not how shopping vintage works. Here, Dumas shares her own tips and tricks for scoring unique vintage clothing—if you can’t make it down to her own basement on show day, of course. 

What to Look For

While an item’s fabric, designer, and tailoring are all worth acknowledging, deciding whether or not to buy a piece of vintage clothing ultimately hinges on personal preference, says Dumas. “I believe a quality piece of vintage clothing is a feeling and not a certain set of criteria,” she explains. “When you try on a caftan or a skirt that fits you perfectly and has your personality, the stars align… It does not have to be a name brand for it to be a quality piece. You just need to know that it has to go home with you.”

What to Skip

No matter how much you love an item, there are a handful of red flags Dumas says you shouldn’t ignore. “I will always leave behind a piece that is faded. There is no way to make a faded piece look better,” she says. “Beading that is coming off will only get worse—pass. Worn-out elastic is not easy to correct well. Ripped chiffon is unfixable. I don’t mind a tiny moth hole or faint stain if the dress is extraordinary.”

Forget Modern Sizing

Take what you know about the sizes hanging in your closet and throw that intel out the window. “You absolutely have to try on vintage pieces to get the sizing right,” says the tastemaker. “The arm holes are smaller. The neck holes are smaller. I don’t think people ate in the ‘60s and ‘70s; they just smoked and had fabulous clothes.”

Why You Shouldn’t Avoid Polyester

These days, we may be quick to eschew the material in favor of natural fabrics like cotton and linen. But when it comes to vintage, Dumas says to give the stuff a chance. “It is my favorite fabric because it does not fade, can be washed in the washing machine (on delicate and hung to dry), and there is nothing more flattering than double knit polyester,” she says. “I think that part of the allure of vintage clothes is the vibrancy of the colors, and it is amazing that a dress that is six decades old can look brand new. Thank you, polyester.”

Don’t Overlook the Accessories

Some environments, like thrift stores, may prove more difficult to find hidden gems, especially if you don’t broaden your horizons. “I personally have not been able to find quality pieces in thrift stores the past few years. But if you are on the hunt, don’t forget to look at the scarves,” advises Dumas. “You might find a Liberty or a Vera in the pile.”

Do Your Homework First

Don’t be duped by a vintage reproduction, Dumas warns. “You need to know your vintage brands or at least be able to spot a vintage brand tag so that you don’t buy a vintage reproduction. Look for the Union Made (ILGWU) tags that were sewn into clothes starting in 1959 and prevalent through the ‘70s.”

How to Shop for Vintage Clothing Online

While there’s no substitute for sorting through vintage caftans or feeling fabrics in person, Dumas offers some guidance for perusing virtually. “Search brand names. Read about the condition of the piece. Try to only buy the pieces with no visible defects. Put “60s” or “70s” in your search so you don’t end up with a bunch of “vintage” clothes from 2000. Don’t look for sizes.  Look for measurements.  Look for sellers that accept returns. Don’t get discouraged if your piece does not fit. Keep on trying! Most vintage pieces will need some sort of repair (maybe just a hook-and-eye or a loose button), but don’t let that stop you: You will have an original piece of clothing and it will not go to a landfill. Win-win.”

Remember These Brands

While a brand name isn’t the be-all, end-all when it comes to shopping vintage, there are a number of them that Dumas says she will snap up in a heartbeat: “Anything Malcolm Starr from the ‘50s and ‘60s (if you see it, buy it!); Victor Costa from the ‘70s, Paloma Picasso XXX belts from the ‘70s, David Brown caftans from the ‘70s, Diseno Josefa caftans (vibrant cotton Mexican caftans that are delicious), Eddy George gold lurex skirts from the ‘60s and ‘70s, Alice of California or Alice Polynesian (made in Hawaii) dresses or caftans from the ‘60s or ‘70s, and Leslie Fay dresses and pants suits from the ‘60s.”